We began planning for our weekend at “The Barbecue Capital of Texas” the moment we received the invitation from our AluminumPride rally group in July. Despite our decision in August to divert our camping funds and activities to visiting Jon’s mom for one week of every month, we were determined to keep this longstanding commitment to join our friends in Lockhart.

We arrived on a warm Thursday afternoon, which happened to be Cliff’s 58th birthday, and after setting up, we joined the group for cocktails and heavy hors d’oeuvres, punctuated by a robust rendition of the “Happy Birthday” song. We eventually broke away to enjoy our Date Night, with Chef Cliff grilling a tenderloin accompanied by asparagus and smashed potatoes (yes, he cooked on his birthday, but it was entirely his idea).

Next day, Jon worked remotely while Cliff joined the group for a hike through Lockhart State Park, a Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps park. We then joined the group for lunch in Lockhart. It’s hard to imagine how a town with only four barbecue restaurants would become The Barbecue Capital of Texas, but those four restaurants serve about 5,000 customers a week, bringing some 250,000 people every year to eat barbecue in Lockhart.

Our first choice was Smitty’s Market, site of the former Kruez Market. The story of how Smitty’s came to be is complicated, but it suffices to say the Schmidt family has had a significant presence there for more than 50 years. We ordered a pound of brisket, which was served in the traditional meat-market style: on brown butcher paper and with only a plastic knife. The side dishes we selected, a hot potato casserole and coleslaw, proved to be better than the brisket, which was lukewarm and dry.

After lunch, the group explored the town square, including a quick visit to Chaparral Coffee, a charming little coffee and wine bar. We met up later for drinks at Old Pal Texas Tavern, a come-as-you-are joint with a massive u-shaped bar in a historic building on a prime corner location. We ended the day with lively conversation around the campfire.

The next morning found us joining the group for a pancake and sausage breakfast. We agreed to meet in the afternoon at Kruez Market, which traces its history to 1875. After the disappointing brisket at Smitty’s, we were delighted to enjoy some of the best brisket and sausage we’ve ever had. Much to our surprise, the beans were exceptionally delicious.

Kruez Market only recently added side dishes to its menu, a nod no doubt to the demands of indignant customers who wanted something more than a slice of cheddar cheese or a chunk of onion. Another concession: sauce and forks (both added in 2017). Although Kruez Market continues the meat-market style of serving slices of smoked meat and sausage weighed and stacked on butcher paper, its break with more than a century of tradition hasn’t adversely affected its business.

We returned to Cloud 9 for a late-afternoon nap as an approaching cold front started dropping temperatures. We ended our evening with yet another lively campfire conversation among friends new and old.

Our anticipated “brisket crawl” didn’t materialize as we had imagined, so we’ll just have to return for a visit to the remaining barbecue joints. Considering the convenience of Lockhart State Park, it should be a fairly easy weekender.